Your cabinet should have a model number and rating plate on the back, if there is no rating plate the cabinet will need to have the impedance measured by an engineer. We do not recommend using the cabinet until the impedance has been checked as it could damage both your amplifier and cabinet if either is used incorrectly.
If your cabinet has a rating plate the impedance of the cabinet must match the impedance of the amplifier you are connecting it to. For example our standard mono 1960A/B will have an impedance of 16 ohms. The 1960A/B stereo cabinet has a selectable mono impedance of either 4 or 16 ohms and a stereo impedance of 8 ohms.
Impedance ratings for all our current cabinets can be found in the applicable product sections on this website. If you would like any specific information on an older cabinet which has no rating plate, then please e-mail us with a description of the cabinet and details of the speakers fitted along with some good quality photographs. We will do our best to tell you the impedance.
The impedance of your cabinet should match the impedance stated on the back of your amplifier with regards to valve amplifiers these will normally have a selector or different speaker sockets for different impedances.
To change the impedance of your cabinet will depend on the impedance of the individual speaker, if your 4 x 12 is fitted with four 16 ohms speakers it can be wired for 16 ohms mono, 4 ohms mono or 8 ohms stereo. If the 4 x 12 cabinet is fitted with 8 ohms speakers this can be wired for 8 ohms mono, 2 ohms mono, 16 ohms stereo or 4 ohms stereo. If you have a 2 x 12 cabinet fitted with 16 ohms speakers this can be wired for 8 ohms mono, 16 ohms stereo or if you have a 2 x 12 fitted with 8 ohms speakers this could be wired for 4 or 16 ohms mono or 8 ohms stereo. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
Any 2x12” or 4x12” cabinets can be converted to stereo providing the amplifier you wish to use it with can match the impedance and the speakers can handle the power of the amplifier. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
Most of our combos have an extension cabinet designed to match its size and sound. Our website has full details of which combos and extension cabinets work together and our handbooks, available to download from the support section, give full explanations on how to connect them. We recommend going to your local Marshall Dealer so you can test out the combos and cabinets to see which one suits you the best.
Unfortunately the old style selectors are no longer available. We recommend having it replaced with the new rotary selector. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer
Impedance is the load connecting to the speaker socket on the amplifier or combo to give maximum power transference. This must match the stated impedance value on the amplifier or combo to ensure no damage can be caused to the speaker or amplifier.
Most of the handbooks show where you connect the speakers and the impedance either by using a selector switch or different speaker sockets. All our handbooks are available to download from the support section on this website
Our website shows you the different cabinets, their size, power handling and finish so you can see which one will suit your amplifier and style. We would recommend contacting your local dealer to try the cabinet out. Please ensure your chosen cabinet can handle the power (watts and impedance) of your amplifier.
All cabinet sizes for our current ranges are on our website; unfortunately the sizes for older cabinets may not be available.
Our current speaker cabinets are 1x12”, 2x12” and 4x12” for guitar and 1x15”, 4x10” and 8x10” for bass. We have made various cabinets over the years with varying amounts of speakers, if you could supply a model number we will then do our best to identify your cabinet for you.
If you are connecting a stereo amplifier or two different amplifiers to a stereo cabinet make sure the impedance and power handling of the cabinet matches your amplifier/amplifiers. If you are using our standard 4x12” this has two sockets and a selector switch on the back, setting this switch to stereo splits the cabinet into right & left. The two sockets will now have an impedance of 8 ohms with a power handling depending on the cabinet you have. Connect two speaker leads to the two sockets on the cabinet and connect the other end of these two leads into the right and left speaker sockets of your stereo amplifier or alternatively into the speaker sockets of two separate amplifiers.
We only stock speakers for current models but in most circumstance we would have a new speaker that will work in most old Marshall Cabinets and Combos.
In most circumstances we will have new parts that will match the requirements of the old part.
Due to the ongoing changes and tightening of health and safety regulations we can not supply electronic parts or parts that require any form of disassembly of the unit to the general public. We recommend any work that involves removal of the chassis or back to be carried out by a qualified engineer only. Most other non-electrical parts (excluding fret or covering) can be purchased from our Spares Department on 01908 375411 or your local dealer. When contacting our Spares Department you will be required to provide the Model and Serial number of your unit.
We re-issued the small logo due to original tooling becoming unavailable. The five locating pins on this small logo may be in slightly different positions to those required by your combo or cabinet. All other size logos should line up.
If you can supply a good quality photograph we will do our best to identify your fret and inform you if we still stock it. Alternatively if you visit our website you will see all current frets that are available. Email – firstname.lastname@example.org
Please contact Marshall for prices. These will depend on your particular model of amplifier, combo or cabinet.
To replace the fret cloth/ covering would necessitate the removal of the chassis, which we recommend is only to be carried out by a qualified engineer. As a consequence, we are not in a position to sell the fret cloth or covering to the general public.
TThe colours and styles available will vary depending on the range and models of amplifier, cabinets and combos we are making in our current range, for our standard finishes please visit our website for the different colours please go to your local dealer and they will be able to enquire for you.
All the Marshall Products we have re issued take in to account all modern day constraints and regulations but are designed to match the original in looks, quality and sound.
Some of the re issues amplifiers use the old style ST 1 PCB while others use POINT to POINT Circuit Board, if you contact your dealer they should be able to inform you of the amplifier you are interested in and what type of circuitry it has.
Working closely with Celestion they have produced speakers using modern day components to sound and look as closely as possible to the originals.
Units are chosen based on the feedback and demand back we receive from our customers and dealers from around the world.
Certain models have been made as limited runs, for example only 600 Super100JH Hendrix Stacks where produced. If you are interested in a specific model your dealer will be able to find out the information for you.
We have a on going programme in our Research & Development department to look at the market place and listen to our customers and dealers views. Our decision on which units to re-issue are based on this information.
Regarding the value of your unit this will depend on various factors such as the condition of the unit and whether or not it has been recovered or painted, the condition of the chassis and what material it is made from (Aluminium or Steel) whether the chassis has been altered or modified in anyway and whether the major components i.e. transformers and speakers are original.
7 - ValvesIt is important that any valves are replaced by a qualified engineer.
We do not recommend the removal of any valves as a 100 watt amplifier is designed to work with four power valves the removal of two can and will cause damage. One way to reduce the output of the amplifier will be to use a power soak this gives you a lower physical output allowing you to turn the amplifier higher to achieve the tone you are after.
When replacing valves we recommend good quality, only use old valves such as Mullard if you if you know and trust their history, if so they should be no less reliable then a new valve. The tone or quality will vary from valve to valve there is no guarantee when using old valves that they will sound any better then a new valve it is down to individual taste. All valve replacement must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
We recommend when replacing the pre amp valves they are replaced with the same type and model, if you use a different type or model this can and will cause damage to the amp. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
We recommend when replacing power valves they need to be replaced with the same type and model and they are matched, the amplifier will also need to be re biased to match the new valves to the amplifier. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
We do not recommend mixing the power valves they must be all the same type and model and matched when fitted in your amplifier or combo, if different types of valves are fitted this can and will cause damage to your amplifier.
Most of our amplifiers and combos have a mixture of valves some for pre amp and some for the power amplifier the number and type will vary from and amplifier to amplifier the pre amp valves take the small guitar signal and amplify it and alter it both in gain and tone and feed the larger signal to drive the power valves. The power valves then feed the larger signal to drive the speaker through the output transformer. Some of our transistor units for example the AVT range have a valve ECC 83 in the pre amp to add tone and colour to the signal.
This does not necessarily indicate a fault with the valves or the amplifier or combo but we would recommend that you have it checked out by a qualified engineer.
A valve does not have a set life span. We normally recommend the power valves are replaced every eighteen months to two years, pre amp valves approximately every four years. When having your power valves replaced we recommend these are matched and the amplifier is re biased, regarding the pre amp valves these can be replaced individually as pre amp valves do not need biasing when replaced. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
We recommend all power valves are replaced at the same time you use matched valves and the amplifier will need to be biased to match your new valves. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
When replacing power valves to ensure they work correctly, give the required sound and ensure a long working life we recommend the amplifier is re biased. If the bias is not set every time the power valves are replaced this can and will cause damage to the valves and amplifier. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
TThe term 12AX7 is the American model number for the ECC83.
The 5881 is the same type of valve as the 6L6 but with slightly higher output. The bias on the amplifier will need to be set depending whether you are using 5881 or 6L6. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
We recommend when replacing your EL34 power valves you use the same type and make and ensure the valves are matched together and the amplifier is biased for the new valves. If you mix makes this can and will damage your amplifier or combo. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
Setting this value too high or too low this will alter the sound of the amplifier shortening the life of your power valves and could damage the amplifier or combo.
When using a power soak with a valve amplifier or combo because you tend to drive the amplifier harder and louder the life expectancy of the power valves could be shortened.
If a valve is faulty you will not necessary see any distinguishing marks. If you feel a valve may be faulty due to sound quality or no glow from one or more of the valves you can see through the back grill we recommend you immediately switch the amplifier off and have it checked by a qualified engineer before using it again.
If you feel one of your speakers is not working and it is not possible to tell which one we recommend that you have it looked at by a qualified engineer.
If you have replaced the blown fuse with the correct type and value and it still blows this could be due to a faulty valve or a fault within the power supply. Do not attempt to replace the fuse with a larger value as this can and will cause more damage. We recommend that you have it looked at by a qualified engineer.
Crackling on your amplifier could be due to a number of things such as valves, damaged or broken socket or pot, faulty guitar lead or guitar. We recommend that you have your equipment checked so you can determine what part of your equipment is faulty.
Regarding the noise on your unit depending on the model of amplifier or combo and which channel you are using will determine the amount of background noise. Most clean channels there should be little or no background noise the higher you have the gain or if you are using the overdrive channels when you stop playing there will be a significant background noise. This will not be apparent on some models if you unplug the guitar lead from the input; if the noise is still apparent when playing I would recommend you take it back to your dealer so that it can be checked out.
We recommend that you do not attempt to plug the amplifier or combo into the mains until it has been checked by a qualified engineer, if the amplifier is still under warranty return it to the dealer you purchased it from.
We recommend under no circumstances to attempt to use your unit until it has been checked by a qualified engineer as the liquid can and will cause more damage to your amplifier if you attempt to use it. Any damage of this kind would not be covered by the warranty.
This section applies to UK customers only. International customers please contact your local Marshall distributor for more information. Contact details can be found here: http://www.marshallamps.com/dealer/dealer_search.asp
All Marshall service work in the UK is carried out at the Marshall factory in Bletchley. We do not have any other service engineers or centres based in the country. To have your amplifier serviced we can arrange collection from a business address, you can make an appointment and have it looked at while you wait or you are able to leave your unit with us. Please contact our Returns Department on 01908 375411 if you would like to arrange collection or make an appointment. You will be contacted with a free quote before going ahead with any repairs but we cannot give an estimated cost before seeing the amplifier. There will be a carriage charge if our couriers collect and return your amplifier and this will need to be paid regardless if you go ahead with the repair.
We only service Marshall Products at our factory.
If your amplifier is under warranty you should take it back to the dealer you purchased it from and they will then arrange on your behalf for your amplifier to come back to the factory to be repaired, we cover the cost of carriage between the dealer and factory for the first year of warranty.
If your unit is being couriered to us then it takes between 7-10 working days, until the quote on the unit has been approved no work will take place.
We offer free quotes on all Marshall Products, there are no set prices as all parts are priced individually.
If your unit is under warranty you need to get into contact with the dealer you purchased it through and they will arrange the repair on your behalf. If your unit is over a year old but you have registered for the extended warranty you will still be expected to pay the carriage charge.
We have ‘while you wait’ appointments available at 9am or 1.15pm every Monday to Thursday and every Friday at 9am. To make an appointment please contact our returns department on 01908 375411.
You are very welcome to drop your unit in to our service centre without notice as all your details will be taken on arrival; we are closed for lunch from 12.15-1.15 Monday to Friday and close Monday to Thursday at 4.30pm and 3.30pm on Friday.
We do not modify or customize any of our Marshall Products.
If you bring or send your unit to us to be fixed and it is not under warranty the repair work carried out is covered by the service warranty for 6 months, but if valves are changed they are only covered by a 3 months warranty.
This section applies to UK customers only. International customers please contact your local Marshall distributor for more information. Contact details can be found here: http://www.marshallamps.com/dealer/dealer_search.asp. If you purchase an amplifier abroad it is covered by warranty in the country it was purchased from, different countries have different warranty policies. If you purchase an amplifier abroad and bring it into the UK it is not covered by any warranty in the UK.
Proper connection and placement of external effects is somewhat subjective and depends greatly upon the type of effect and the player. Generally speaking time-based/ambient effects (i.e. delay and reverb) sound best when run through an effects loop. Distortion, overdrive, boosters, wah, and compressors tend to sound best when connected directly to the amplifier's input. Modulation effects (chorus, flange, phaser, etc.) fall into somewhat of a grey area; some players prefer them through the amp's input, other through the effects loop. Use your own ears to decide.
Multi effect units tend to cover all of the aforementioned effects, so when deciding where to make connections, you must isolate which effects you plan to use most frequently. If you plan to use a bit of everything, test-drive the multi-effect through both the guitar input and effects loop, seeing which best suits your application.
When using multiple effect units, you'll find that the order in which they are connected can significantly affect their voicing. While we'd suggest you experiment, ultimately finding which works best for you, here's a generalized guideline to get you started;
Guitar > Wah > Compressor > Overdrive (including Distortions and Boosters) > Modulation > Delay > Reverb.
If using distortion, overdrive, booster, compressor, wah, etc..... and/or if your amp does not feature an effects loop, connection to the amp's input would be appropriate. To do so, simply use a good quality, screened (shielded) instrument cable to connect your guitar to the effect's input (Fig. 1.1). Use another instrument cable to connect the effect's output (Fig. 1.2) to the amplifier's input (Fig. 1.3).
As mentioned before, when time-based or ambient effects are used, the effects loop would be the logical place for connection. (Note; you should feel free to experiment with testing all effect types through the loop.) To connect an effect to the Loop, use a good quality, screened (shielded) instrument cable to connect your effect's input (Fig. 2.1) to the Effect Loop Send jack (Fig. 2.2). Use another instrument cable to connect the effect's output (Fig. 2.3) to the amplifier's Effects Loop Return jack (Fig. 2.4).
Some Marshall amplifiers are equipped with a Loop Level switch located on the rear panel (Fig. 3.1); normally right next to the Effects Loop jacks. This switch provides a +4dB or -10dB (db = decibel) compensation for the various effects that can be run through the loop. The general suggestion is that the -10db setting should be used for stomp box type effects. The +4dB setting should be used for rack/floor processors. However, as effect manufacturer specifications tend to vary greatly, we suggest trying both positions regardless of the effect. Feel free to experiment and decide which yields the strongest and cleanest tone.
If your Marshall is equipped with a front panel FX Mix/FX Loop Mix knob (Fig. 4.1 & 4.2), this indicates that the amp has a Parallel or Series/Parallel effects loop. This means that you can adjust the amount of effect that is heard via this knob. If your amp does not have this knob, you have a Series Loop, in this instance you can adjust the effect level via the effects unit itself.
a.1 All amplifiers will have some noise floor. Whether it's a hiss or low level hum, a perfectly healthy amp is bound to emit some sort of noise when at idle (i.e. when you're not playing). The amount of noise will vary from model to model and depends on the voicing and design of the amp in question.
a.2 High volume settings, high gain settings, and/or bright EQ settings = HISS. No way around it folks; if you opt to play at loud volumes, use gobs of gain, or like to crank the old treble and presence controls til' your eyes water, your amp will sound like a slowly deflating tractor tire.
a.3 If noise goes in, NOISE will come out. If your substandard pedal- board, ancient effects units, or poorly wired/shielded guitar or bass is feeding the amp noise, the same noise will be exponentially amplified by....well....your amplifier. This is also true on the amp's other end; the AC supply. If the AC supply in your location is poor, or if the outlet you're connected to is not sufficiently earthed, it can create hum/buzz via the amp's power supply.
a.4 Any amp is susceptible to Radio Frequency Interference. Yep, while we do carefully design our products to minimize the possibility of interference, any amplifier can unfortunately pick up RFI without notice. Needless to say, living/playing in close proximity to radio towers is unfortunately not going to help.
a.1 - Regardless of the type of noise you're encountering, here are a few basic steps that should be addressed;
A defective, cheap, or poorly shielded cable can be susceptible to hum/buzz and interference.
a.2 - Try another Guitar/Bass.
Earthing - An instrument that is not properly earthed (grounded) will induce hum/buzz and is also susceptible to interference. An instrument that is well earthed, but is still problematic may benefit from having its control cavity lined or painted with shielding. Discuss the possibility and benefits of this with your trusted instrument repairman.
Single - Coil Pickups - Single-coils will induce their own 50/60-cycle hum. No way around it; this symptom is characteristic of this pickup's design. If your guitar is equipped with three single-coils and a 5-way selector switch, set the switch to position 2 or 4. This creates a hum-canceling effect that eliminates the hum. Not necessarily a problem solver, but another way to qualify whether or not the pickups are the culprit.
Active Pickups - Active pickups require a power source, which in most cases is a 9V battery. When this battery starts to die, it will result in a poor guitar signal and it can even induce distortion.
a.3 - Disconnect any external effects.
Stompboxes and multi-effects units can be a great addition to any player's arsenal, but if not functioning properly or inherently noisy, they can be problematic. Also keep in mind that distortion, overdrive, fuzzes, and boosters will tend to exaggerate an amplifier's noise floor.
a.4 - Move your mobile phone away from the amp.
May sound a bit odd, but your mobile phone's signal can cause interference. You might hear an intermittent puttering or buzzing that could very well be the result your phone's close proximity. Take it out of your pocket and move it away from the amp.
a.5 - Try the amp in another outlet/location altogether.
As mentioned earlier, noise could weasel its way in via the amp's power supply as well. Try the amp in another outlet, another room, or another building to ensure that your AC supply isn't the culprit.
a.6 - Turn off any neon/fluorescent lights and dimmer switches.
All three of the aforementioned can induce buzz/hum through the power supply. Eliminate them as variables.
a.7 - Consider replacing your preamp valves (if applicable).
Microphonic preamp valves (tubes) can be the cause of all of the initially mentioned symptoms, including popping, crackling, and squealing. If not familiar/comfortable with swapping valves, we suggest having a qualified tech address replacement for you. Should you have replaced the preamp tubes with no change, it's possible that the output valves need replacement (again, if applicable). However as most all-valve Marshall amps require a bias adjustment after output valve replacement, we'd suggest having a tech do this for you as well.
a.8 - Consider having a technician evaluate your amp.
Should all else fail, the best course would be to have a technician address the problem directly. If the issue is isolated to the amp itself, there could be a number of causes, which would ultimately have to be traced by qualified personnel.
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 5.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the JCM900's parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 5.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 5.3). Now set the JCM900's impedance selector to 16 Ohms (Fig. 5.4).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set both cabinets to Mono (Fig. 6.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the JCM900's Parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 6.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the first 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 6.3). Now connect a second speaker cable to the JCM900's remaining parallel loudspeaker output (Fig. 6.4). Connect the other end of this cable to the second 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 6.5). Lastly set the JCM900's impedance selector to 8 Ohms (Fig. 6.6).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 7.1) and connect a speaker cable to the TSL/DSL's 16 Ohm Only loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 7.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 7.3). The position of the TSL/DSL rear panel 4/8 Ohm impedance selector does not matter in this scenario.
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 8.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL/DSL's 4/8 Ohm Parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 8.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 4 Ohm input (Fig. 8.3). Set the TSL/DSL's 4/8 Ohm impedance selector to 4 Ohms (Fig. 8.4).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set both 1960 cabinets to Mono (Fig. 9.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL/DSL's 4/8 Ohm Parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 9.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the first 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 9.3). Connect a second speaker cable to the remaining TSL/DSL 4/8 Ohm Parallel loudspeaker output (Fig. 9.4). Then connect the other end of this cable to the second 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 9.5). Finally, set the TSL/DSL 4/8 Ohm impedance selector to 8 Ohms (Fig. 9.6).
First make sure the Amplifier is switched off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 10.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL's parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 10.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 16 Ohm input socket (Fig. 10.3). Now set the TSL60's 8/16 Ohm impedance selector to 16 Ohms (Fig. 10.4).
First insure that the amplifier is switched off then set both cabs to Mono (Fig. 11.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL's Parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 11.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the first Cabinet's 16 Ohm input socket (Fig. 11.3). Plug a second speaker cable into the remaining parallel loudspeaker output on the head unit (Fig. 11.4) and insert the other end into the 16 Ohm input socket on the second cabinet (Fig. 11.5). Finally, set the TSL60's 8/16 Ohm impedance selector to 8 Ohms (Fig. 11.6).
Firstly make sure the amplifier is switched off and connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL60's parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 12.1). Plug the other end of the speaker cable into the Mono 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 12.2)and set the head unit's 8/16 impedance selector to 16 Ohms (Fig. 12.3).
Insure the amplifier is turn off and then connect a speaker cable to either of the TSL60's Parallel loudspeaker output (Fig. 13.1). Next, connect the other end of the speaker cable to the first Mono 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 13.2) and repeat this process with a second speaker cable connecting the remaining output and input sockets (Fig. 13.3 & 13.4). Now set the TSL60's 8/16 Ohm impedance selector to 8 Ohms (Fig. 13.5).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 14.1) and connect a speaker cable to the head's 16 Ohm Only loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 14.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 14.3). Set the head's impedance selector to 16 Ohms (Fig. 14.4).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set the 1960 to Mono (Fig. 15.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the head's parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 15.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the 1960's 4 Ohm input (Fig. 15.3). Set the head's impedance selector to 4 Ohms (Fig. 15.4).
First, make sure the amplifier is off then set both 1960 cabinets to Mono (Fig. 16.1) and connect a speaker cable to either of the head's parallel loudspeaker outputs (Fig. 16.2). Connect the other end of the speaker cable to the first 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 16.3). Connect a second speaker cable to the head's remaining parallel loudspeaker output (Fig. 16.4). Then connect the other end of this cable to the second 1960's 16 Ohm input (Fig. 16.5). Finally, set the head's impedance selector to 8 Ohms (Fig. 16.6).
Please look at the Marshall Website for details of your nearest dealer. http://www.marshallamps.com/dealer/dealer_search.asp.
We only sell merchandise and spare parts for units direct from the factory these can be purchased from our spares department. If you wish to try out an amplifier before purchasing it we recommend going to your nearest Marshall Dealer details can be found on the Marshall Website of where your nearest dealer is. http://www.marshallamps.com/dealer/dealer_search.asp.
We have a number of dealers that sell over the internet, their prices may be cheaper but please read the terms and conditions carefully in terms of returning your amplifier. You may be required to pay a carriage charge even if your amplifier is under a year old as the Marshall warranty states we will only cover the cost of carriage between the dealer and the factory.
When you purchase a new amplifier you receive a warranty card that explains in full the warranty terms and conditions and also has attached a registration card that you should fill in and send back to us as this entitles you to the extended warranty of an extra two years cover, you have 90 days from the day of purchase to register your amplifier. If by any chance there is not a warranty card inside the box then contact your dealer as they should have spares.
If you buy a second hand unit the warranty is not transferable.
Our warranty is not transferable from owner to owner, but the shop you purchase the unit through may have their own warranty scheme for second hand goods. If so the warranty is with the shop only not with the manufactures i.e. ourselves. We would still be able to service your unit but it will be chargeable.
If your amplifier needs repairing during the first year of purchase we do not charge the dealer’s carriage charge, however the dealers may charge you carriage charge depending on its terms and conditions before purchasing the amplifier it is a good idea to find out about carriage charge fees, as they may charge you if they have to collect the amplifier from you before returning it to us. If the amplifier is over a year old you will be expected to pay the carriage charge as we will charge the dealer. Most repair work is covered by the warranty except such items as valves, speakers and transformers which have different warranty periods all information is explained in the warranty card you receive with the amplifier.
Some of our smaller dealers only sell our MG Range of amplifiers but larger stores have most of our stock and can always order a unit for you.
We would recommend contacting your dealer to see if they have an area set aside for demonstration.
If you have a unit still under warranty but have moved from where you originally purchased it from but have a Marshall Dealer in the area, you can ask them if they would not mind sending it back on your behalf but they are not obligated to do so as they did not sell it to you originally.
Some of our units that we manufacture have the facility to select the appropriate voltage for the country. Other amplifiers have to be re wired internally to select the correct voltage and others are specifically made for different voltages, these would need to have various components replaced. All units would need to be fitted with the correct fuse for the particular country. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer.
If you purchase an amplifier abroad it is covered by warranty in the country it was purchased from, different countries have different warranty policies. If you purchase an amplifier abroad and bring it into the UK it is not covered by any warranty in the UK.
If you could supply us with the model and serial number we will then be able to find out the information you require.
Unfortunately as most guitarists have an individual sound and tend to use more than one amplifier and guitar. It is impossible to have all the individual settings as these can vary from amplifier to amplifier and in certain cases are guarded secrets.
With regards to the units used by your favourite guitarists if you can supply the name and the band they are in we will do our best to find this information out for you.
All Marshall Products are designed to work at maximum but if you run your amplifier at maximum you can shorten the life or certain components such as valves, but it should not damage the actual unit.
We recommend contacting your dealer so you can try various effects pedals with an amplifier to see which ones suit you the best.
For pedals designed to give gain we suggest placing them between the guitar and amplifier input. Pedals such as reverb, chorus and delay providing they have the correct output level can be used in the effects loop if your amplifier or combo has one , most rack effects are also designed to be used in the effects loop of an amplifier.
If your unit is designed to use a footswitch your local dealer should have this information and will be able to supply you with the correct footswitch for your unit.
There are no set positions for the controls of your amplifier they are all individual controls which you should set to get the optimum sound you require.
Providing you are using the Marshall recommended speaker lead and that this is replaced on a regular basis you should not notice any loss of quality due to the speaker lead.
The noise you are describing is due to the distance you are from your amplifier the louder you set your amplifier the greater this distance needs to be, this will also depend on the pickups in your guitar. The best advice I can give if you intend to use your amplifier at higher volumes move away from the amplifier as far as possible.
Most Marshall amplifier with the exception of our Acoustic range are designed to take one guitar, connecting two guitars into the same input to use at the same time will effect both the quality and the level of sound and could also damage the input circuitry.
Lifting a cabinet off the ground depending on the height can increase the bass response and help to spread the sound. If you intend trying this we recommend you ensure the cabinet is securely supported.
Ensure the controls cannot be damaged and that it cannot slide about in either the boot or van you are transporting it in. If you are transporting a combo or cabinet ensure the speaker is facing down and the controls on the combo are not put under any strain, due to anything else in the boot or van. If transporting a cabinet with castors in a van either place the cabinet face down if this is not possible transport the cabinet on its side not on the castors.
When you are about to use your valve amplifier connect the speaker lead to the cabinet and amplifier, if the unit is a combo ensure the speaker lead is connected. Switch the mains switch on and leave for at least two minutes, or until you are ready to use the amplifier, switch on the standby switch. If you are leaving the amplifier or combo for a short while switch make sure you switch off the standby switch, but never leave the amplifier unattended when switched on. When switching the amplifier or combo off switch the standby and then the mains switches there is no need for a delay between this operations. We would recommend leaving the unit to cool down for a minimum of 10 minutes before moving.
We recommend a speaker cabinet is connected to Marshall Amplifiers at all times.
If the two amplifiers you wish to connect together have effects loops you can in certain circumstances plug your guitar into the input of one amplifier take a screened lead from the send of that amplifier into the return of your second amplifier, this makes the second amplifier the slave unit none of the pre amp controls on the second amplifier will function depending on the model you have. The master volume will control the output of the second amplifier where the tone controls on the first amplifier will affect both; this will vary from model to model. If one of your amplifiers is fitted with a DI socket this can be used instead of the send socket on the first amplifier you must ensure that both amplifier have a speaker connected at all times failing to do this may cause damage.
Because of the nature of a valve amplifier or combo they will generate heat, due to this reason they are fitted with a grill at the back so it is not possible to be able to touch the valves, when the amplifier is in use it will get to a working temperature this can and will be hot to touch this is quite normal. If you are concerned contact your dealer so they can check the amplifier out for you.
We recommend a speaker cabinet is connected to Marshall Amplifiers at all times. Failure to do this can and will cause damage to your amplifier.
The vent on the top of your unit is part of the ventilation to keep the valves running at the correct temperature; the top and back grill must have a good air flow at all times as is if it is restricted this can and will cause damage.
This will depend on the model number of your amplifier if you supply us with the model number we can tell you what materials are used to construct your amplifier.
The amplifiers which are manufactured abroad are the MG Range, MB Range and the Acoustic Combos, all other amplifiers are manufactured in the Milton Keynes Factory.
If you would like to contact our returns department they will be able to arrange a tour for you, this must be done by appointment.
If you intend on storing your unit I would recommend a dry well ventilated space if being stored over winter the unit is kept in a centrally heated room. Under no circumstances must it be stored where it will be subjected to moisture.
If your unit is stored for a number of weeks up to a month this should cause no prolonged damage. If it is stored for several months upwards to six certain components especially in older units may need replacing before re using. We would recommend before you intend on using the amplifier you have it checked and serviced by a qualified engineer.
To check whether there is a cover available for your amplifier and the price then please contact our spares department on 01908 375411.
Depending on the model of your amplifier or combo this will depend on what will need to be altered, certain models have selectors fitted whilst others need the mains transformer re-wiring and other amplifiers will need to have the mains transformer replaced. All will need the correct fuse for the country it will be used in. All work of this nature must be carried out by a qualified engineer
On some of our models due to the output power there is a small delay added when changing channel to reduce any noise when switching from one channel to another.